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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.